Get the best paver materials for durability, style, and low maintenance. Find the perfect option for any budget and climate.
The best paver materials balance durability, aesthetics, and maintenance. Concrete pavers offer affordability and strength, lasting 25+ years with sealing.
Brick pavers provide classic charm but may chip over time. Natural stone—like flagstone or bluestone—delivers unmatched beauty but requires sealing and a solid base.
Porcelain pavers resist stains, fading, and moisture, making them ideal for low-maintenance patios. Climate matters: freeze-thaw cycles can crack porous materials.
Cost also varies—concrete is budget-friendly, while natural stone commands a premium. Choosing the right material ensures a durable, long-lasting patio suited to both style and function. (1)
Key Takeaways
- Durability matters: Concrete and natural stone pavers handle heavy foot traffic, while porcelain resists stains and moisture.
- Climate impacts choice: Travertine stays cool in hot climates, while brick and cobblestone hold up in freeze-thaw conditions.
- Maintenance varies: Porcelain and rubber pavers require the least upkeep, while brick and limestone need sealing and cleaning.
Best Paver Materials for Patios
Some patios last decades, others crack and fade within years. The difference? Material choice. Whether it’s concrete for cost-effectiveness, brick for classic charm, or natural stone for an upscale touch, each has strengths and trade-offs. Here’s a breakdown of the best options.
Concrete Pavers
Concrete pavers feel like a safe bet. They’re affordable, adaptable, and easy to install. They come in endless colors and textures—some even mimic natural stone or brick (at a fraction of the cost). That’s why they’re everywhere, from driveways to patios.
- Materials: Made from a mix of cement, sand, and aggregate.
- Durability: 20–30 years with proper maintenance.
- Thickness: 1.5–3 inches (thicker ones handle more weight).
- Cost: $3–$6 per square foot.
- Upkeep: Needs sealing to prevent stains and color fading.
- Slip Resistance: Good, but some finishes can be slick when wet.
They interlock, which helps with stability, but they’re prone to shifting if the base isn’t compacted well. Edging can keep them in place.
Brick Pavers
Brick pavers have history on their side. Old streets still paved with brick prove how tough they are. Unlike concrete, which fades over time, brick keeps its deep, natural color. It’s kiln-fired clay—dense, durable, and great for heavy foot traffic.
- Lifespan: 25–100 years, depending on care.
- Size: Usually 4×8 inches, but variations exist.
- Cost: $8–$20 per square foot.
- Maintenance: Weeds can grow in joints; resealing helps.
- Load Bearing: Strong enough for driveways.
- Color Fade: Minimal—clay retains pigment naturally.
The downside? Limited color choices and less flexibility in shape. It’s also harder to install than concrete pavers. But for a classic look, nothing beats it.
Natural Stone Pavers (Travertine, Limestone, Flagstone, Cobblestone)
Natural stone pavers are in a league of their own. Each type has a unique texture and strength. Travertine stays cool in the sun (great for pool decks), limestone has a clean, uniform look, flagstone feels rugged, and cobblestone? Nearly indestructible.
- Lifespan: Centuries for cobblestone, decades for softer stones.
- Cost: $8–$30 per square foot.
- Thickness: 1–2 inches for standard patio use.
- Maintenance: Sealing is recommended, especially for porous stones.
- Heat Retention: Travertine stays cool; darker stones absorb heat.
- Slip Resistance: Flagstone and cobblestone have the best grip.
Installation varies. Flagstone often sits in sand or mortar, while cobblestone is usually set in concrete. Either way, it’s a premium option for high-end outdoor spaces.
Porcelain Pavers
Porcelain pavers are sleek, modern, and almost maintenance-free. They don’t absorb water, which means no staining or fading. Unlike natural stone, they’re consistent in color and texture (no surprises when ordering a batch).
- Material: High-density ceramic, fired at extreme heat.
- Durability: 50+ years with minimal upkeep.
- Thickness: ¾ inch for patios, 1¼ inches for driveways.
- Cost: $5–$10 per square foot.
- Water Absorption: Less than 0.5%—ideal for wet areas.
- Maintenance: Occasional sweeping or rinsing.
They can be installed on sand, gravel, or pedestal systems. The downside? They can crack under extreme weight, and cutting them requires a diamond blade.
Rubber & Composite Pavers
Rubber and composite pavers aren’t the first thing people think of, but they have their place. They’re soft underfoot, eco-friendly (usually made from recycled tires or plastics), and shock-absorbent. Perfect for play areas and patios where comfort matters.
- Lifespan: 10–20 years.
- Cost: $2–$6 per square foot.
- Thickness: ½–2 inches.
- Slip Resistance: Excellent, even when wet.
- Installation: Can be glued down or laid over a firm surface.
- Heat Retention: Rubber stays cooler than stone or concrete.
Aesthetically, they don’t match the look of natural stone, but for safety and sustainability, they’re a solid choice.
Choosing the Right Paver Based on Climate & Usage
Weather matters. Some materials handle extreme heat or freezing winters better than others.
Hot Climates
Bare feet on sunbaked pavement—it’s a test of endurance. Some materials hold heat, others reflect it. Travertine stays cool (thanks to its porous surface), making it ideal for patios and pool decks. Limestone works the same way, though lighter shades perform better. Porcelain pavers, especially those with a matte or textured finish, resist heat absorption too.
Concrete? It traps warmth. Brick? Even worse. Darker colors make it unbearable in direct sunlight. If shade is limited, heat-reflective sealers can help. Otherwise, the best way to keep things comfortable is choosing a material that doesn’t turn into a skillet by noon.
Cold Climates
Freezing temperatures test a patio’s durability. Water seeps into cracks, expands when it freezes, then breaks the surface apart. Some materials can handle it. Brick, when properly installed with sand joints, flexes just enough to prevent cracking. Concrete pavers do the same, especially those with beveled edges (less chipping). Cobblestone? Nearly indestructible. It’s been used on streets for centuries.
Porcelain can work, but only if it’s rated for freeze-thaw cycles. Natural stone varies—granite holds up, but softer limestone struggles. Drainage matters too. Water pooling on the surface leads to ice, and ice leads to damage.
High-Traffic Areas
A patio sees everything. Footsteps, furniture, shifting weight. Some materials handle it better than others. Concrete pavers, when properly compacted, won’t crack under pressure. Flagstone’s dense composition makes it another strong choice—its irregular shape also hides wear over time. Cobblestone? It’s built for this. Driveways, plazas, old European streets—it lasts.
Brick works too, though over decades, the surface can smooth out. Soft stones, like sandstone or limestone, show wear faster. Even porcelain, though dense, can chip under heavy impact. The key is thickness. Anything under 1.5 inches isn’t made for long-term durability.
Pool Decks & Slip Resistance
Wet surfaces change everything. A patio that’s safe when dry might be a hazard after rain or a quick splash from the pool. Travertine’s porous texture helps with grip, even when wet. Rubber pavers? Naturally slip-resistant. Textured porcelain, designed for outdoor use, also holds traction well.
Concrete and brick, when smooth, become slick fast. Sealing them makes it worse. Rougher finishes or added grit improve safety. Natural stone varies—flagstone grips well, but polished limestone turns into an ice rink. Choosing the right material is about balancing looks with safety. No one wants a patio that doubles as a slip-and-slide.
Budget & Design Considerations
Some pavers are budget-friendly; others are high-end investments. Design also plays a role—certain materials allow for more creativity.
Most Affordable Options
Price matters. For those on a budget, concrete is the go-to. It’s cheap, widely available, and easy to install. Stamped or stained versions mimic stone or brick without the hefty price tag. Brick costs a little more, but its durability offsets the higher initial expense.
- Concrete: $3–$6 per square foot. Stamped or stained versions add $2–$4 per square foot.
- Brick: $8–$20 per square foot. A long-lasting option with classic appeal.
Labor costs vary. DIY installation saves money, but professional work ensures longevity. Cheap materials don’t stay cheap if they need frequent repairs.
Luxury Choices
Some materials are chosen for looks, not cost. Natural stone—especially high-end options—falls into this category. Flagstone creates a rustic, organic look. Marble feels polished and refined. High-grade limestone offers clean, subtle beauty. (2)
- Flagstone: Varied colors and textures, often irregular in shape.
- Marble: Smooth, cool underfoot, and available in dramatic veined patterns.
- Limestone: Soft, elegant, and best suited for drier climates.
Luxury materials require expert installation. They also need sealing to prevent stains and weather damage. The result? A patio that looks high-end for decades.
Customization Needs
Not all patios should look the same. Some materials allow more flexibility than others. Concrete is the most adaptable—stamped, stained, or textured to resemble brick, stone, or even wood. Porcelain, with its sleek, modern finish, suits contemporary designs.
- Concrete: Can be colored, shaped, or patterned to match any style.
- Porcelain: Precision-cut, available in matte or glossy finishes.
Customization adds cost. Stamping and staining increase concrete’s price, while premium porcelain tiles cost more per square foot. But for those with a specific vision, these materials provide nearly endless options.
Pattern Choices
The way pavers are arranged changes the entire feel of a space. Random layouts, often seen in natural stone installations, create a relaxed, organic look. No two pieces are identical. Uniform patterns—herringbone, basketweave, or running bond—offer structure and order.
- Random layouts: Used for flagstone, cobblestone, and some concrete designs.
- Herringbone & basketweave: Popular for brick and concrete pavers, adding visual interest.
Some patterns provide better stability. Herringbone resists shifting under heavy foot traffic, while irregular flagstone layouts blend seamlessly into the environment. The right choice depends on both function and aesthetic preference.
Essential Paver Installation Tips
Good materials only go so far—installation makes or breaks a patio.
Base Preparation
A patio is only as strong as its foundation. Without a solid base, pavers shift, sink, or crack over time. A 6-inch compacted gravel layer distributes weight evenly, preventing movement. Above that, a 1-inch sand layer smooths out imperfections and helps pavers sit flush.
- 6 inches of compacted gravel: Prevents sinking and uneven surfaces.
- 1 inch of sand: Provides a stable, level base.
Compaction is key. A hand tamper works for small spaces, but a plate compactor speeds up the process. Skipping this step? Expect gaps, dips, and wobbly pavers later.
Drainage Considerations
Water pooling ruins patios. It erodes sand, weakens the base, and encourages weed growth. Proper slope—about 1 inch per foot—directs water away, keeping the surface dry.
Patios should drain toward a yard, storm drain, or gravel pit. For areas with heavy rainfall, adding a French drain (a perforated pipe buried under gravel) helps excess water escape.
Ignoring drainage leads to trouble. Standing water causes staining and moss buildup. Worse, freeze-thaw cycles expand trapped moisture, cracking pavers. Fixing drainage later? A headache and an expense.
Essential Tools
Laying pavers isn’t complicated, but the right tools make a difference. A rubber mallet ensures each paver sits snugly without cracking. A push broom spreads joint sand evenly, locking everything in place.
- Rubber mallet: Gently taps pavers into alignment.
- Push broom: Sweeps sand into joints, preventing movement.
- Utility knife: Trims edge pavers for a precise fit.
A level is also a must. Even slight unevenness creates tripping hazards. For large areas, a screed board (a long, straight board) helps level sand before placing pavers.
Paver Edging
Without edging, patios fall apart. Over time, foot traffic and weather push pavers outward, creating gaps. Edging holds everything in place, preventing shifting.
Plastic edging is flexible and easy to install, perfect for curved designs. Metal edging lasts longer, offering a cleaner, more rigid boundary. Both should be secured with 10-inch spikes every 12 inches to stay put.
Skipping edging isn’t an option. Without it, pavers loosen, weeds creep in, and the entire surface loses its shape. Once pavers start moving, fixing them means pulling everything up and starting over.
Preventing Common Paver Problems
Even well-installed patios can develop issues over time. Here’s how to avoid them.
Paver Failure
A bad base ruins everything. Pavers might look solid at first, but if the ground shifts, they start to wobble, crack, or sink. The fix isn’t in the pavers—it’s underneath them.
- 6-inch compacted gravel base (angular, not rounded) prevents shifting.
- Leveling sand layer keeps pavers even.
- Proper compaction at every stage stops settling.
Without these steps, temperature changes and moisture cause movement. Sand alone won’t cut it. Every layer matters: crushed stone, leveling sand, then the pavers. Skimp on any step, and the patio won’t last.
Weed Growth in Joints
Pavers don’t invite weeds. The gaps between them do. Regular sand washes out, creating the perfect spot for roots. Rain, foot traffic, and wind make it worse.
- Polymeric sand hardens when activated with water, locking out weeds.
- Proper installation (dry application, light misting) prevents failure.
- Tightly spaced pavers leave fewer gaps for seeds to settle.
Ants are another issue—loose sand attracts them. Polymeric sand helps here too, forming a solid surface they can’t tunnel through.
Uneven Surfaces
Sinking pavers aren’t just ugly—they’re a trip hazard. Poor base prep is almost always the cause.
- Vibratory plate compactor (at least 3,000 lbs. of force) removes air pockets.
- Gravel base must be compacted in layers (not all at once).
- Checking for soft spots before laying pavers prevents sinking later.
If a patio already has uneven spots, the only fix is lifting, re-leveling with fresh sand, and compacting again.
Color Fading
Sun exposure wears pavers down. Concrete fades the fastest, especially in direct sunlight. Clay brick holds its color longer but still loses vibrancy over time.
- Sealing every 2–3 years slows UV damage.
- Water-based sealers maintain a natural look, while solvent-based ones add a wet finish.
- Regular cleaning removes dirt and mildew that dull surfaces.
Overapplying sealer traps moisture, causing a cloudy finish. Thin, even coats work best.
Low-Maintenance Paver Options
Not all patios require constant upkeep. Some materials practically take care of themselves.
Easiest to Maintain
Some pavers need constant attention. Porcelain isn’t one of them. It shrugs off stains, resists moisture, and never needs sealing. A quick sweep or rinse is enough to keep it looking clean.
- Non-porous surface repels spills before they soak in.
- Frost-resistant (less cracking in cold climates).
- Minimal upkeep—just soap and water.
Unlike concrete or stone, porcelain doesn’t absorb water. That means no algae growth, no deep stains, and no need for pressure washing. It’s an easy choice for anyone who doesn’t want to spend weekends scrubbing a patio.
Moderate Maintenance
Concrete and brick fall somewhere in the middle. They don’t demand daily care, but they aren’t maintenance-free. Sealing helps slow fading, and a good power wash once a year removes built-up grime.
- Concrete fades faster without a sealer (UV exposure speeds up the process).
- Brick absorbs water, which can lead to moss and mildew.
- Both materials stain easily (oil, rust, and tannins from leaves are common culprits).
Light-colored pavers show dirt faster. Darker shades hide stains better but can still lose their vibrancy over time.
High Maintenance
Natural stone looks timeless, but keeping it that way takes effort. Since it’s porous, it soaks up water, stains, and dirt. Without regular sealing, it can develop dark patches and discoloration.
- Travertine and limestone stain the easiest (both are highly absorbent).
- Granite resists stains better but still benefits from sealing.
- Sealer needs reapplying every 1–2 years to protect against moisture.
Hard water deposits can leave white streaks on stone surfaces. Acidic cleaners (like vinegar) cause etching, so only pH-neutral products should be used.
Cleaning Methods
Not all pavers can handle the same cleaning routine. Power washing works for some, but it can erode softer materials.
- Concrete & brick: Pressure wash (under 3,000 PSI) once a year to remove buildup.
- Porcelain: Mild soap and water—no need for harsh chemicals.
- Natural stone: Use a pH-neutral cleaner to avoid damage.
Sealed surfaces stay cleaner longer. If pavers start to look dull, a reseal might be overdue.
Advanced & Unique Paver Choices
For those looking beyond traditional pavers, there are innovative options.
Permeable Pavers
Water has to go somewhere. When it pools on traditional pavers, it erodes sand, freezes in cracks, and turns patios into slip hazards. Permeable pavers solve that problem by letting water drain straight through, reducing runoff and preventing puddles.
These pavers work best in wet climates or areas prone to heavy rain. They sit over layers of crushed stone, which act as a natural filter, keeping pollutants out of the soil. Some municipalities even offer tax incentives for permeable surfaces. The trade-off? Installation takes longer—gravel and sand need precise layering to maintain drainage.
Synthetic Base Products
Gravel works, but it’s not the only option. Synthetic base systems (like plastic grids) improve drainage while keeping pavers locked in place. Instead of shifting under pressure, these bases distribute weight evenly, reducing settling over time.
Some systems replace gravel entirely. They’re lighter, easier to install, and better for drainage—especially in freeze-thaw climates where traditional bases tend to heave. The downside? Cost. Plastic grids can be two to three times more expensive than gravel. Still, for homeowners who want stability without the bulk, they’re worth considering.
Non-Slip Pavers
Slippery surfaces are a problem. Rain, pool water, even morning dew can turn smooth pavers into skating rinks. The solution? Textured surfaces. Porcelain with a rough finish, rubber pavers, and composite materials all offer better grip, even when wet.
Some materials, like travertine, naturally have texture, making them a solid choice for pool decks. Others, like concrete, need an additive or stamped finish to create traction. The key is surface roughness—anything too smooth will get slick fast. Maintenance matters, too. Algae and moss buildup make any patio slippery, no matter the material.
Recycled Plastic Pavers
Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword. Recycled plastic pavers take post-consumer waste—things like milk jugs and detergent bottles—and turn them into durable, lightweight patio surfaces. Unlike traditional materials, they resist cracking, absorb less water, and won’t break under freezing conditions.
The biggest limitation? Color. While plastic pavers hold up well, they don’t offer the same natural stone look as concrete or clay. Most come in muted grays, browns, or blacks. Still, for homeowners looking for an eco-friendly alternative, they’re a practical option. Plus, they’re easier to install—no heavy lifting required.
Final Thoughts
A great patio starts with the right material. Concrete and brick offer affordability and durability. Natural stone provides an upscale, long-lasting appeal. Porcelain delivers a sleek, low-maintenance finish. Climate, budget, and maintenance preferences should guide the choice.
For a patio that lasts, focus on proper installation and occasional maintenance. Seal porous materials, ensure good drainage, and use polymeric sand to prevent weeds. The right decisions today mean fewer headaches—and more outdoor enjoyment—for years to come.
Contact Lapis Patios today for expert craftsmanship and a patio designed to last.
FAQ
Are recycled plastic pavers durable enough for heavy traffic?
Recycled plastic pavers hold up surprisingly well under foot traffic and light vehicle loads, but they aren’t as strong as concrete or natural stone. Most are made from post-consumer plastics, reinforced with structural grids to improve weight distribution. They flex slightly under pressure, which helps prevent cracking.
For driveways, they might not be the best choice—heavy loads can cause shifting over time. But for patios, walkways, and garden paths, they perform well. They also resist moisture, meaning no warping or rotting. Just keep in mind, color options are limited, and direct sunlight may cause fading over time.
Do permeable pavers work in clay-heavy soil?
Permeable pavers are designed to let water drain through, but clay-heavy soil complicates things. Clay holds onto moisture, slowing absorption and sometimes leading to pooling. To make permeable pavers work in these conditions, a proper base is essential.
A deep gravel layer (at least 12 inches) creates a drainage reservoir, preventing water from sitting at the surface. Some installations also use drainage pipes to move excess water away. Without these steps, water can get trapped, causing instability. In areas with poor drainage, combining permeable pavers with strategic grading often works best.
How does temperature affect different paver materials?
Some pavers handle extreme temperatures better than others. Porcelain, for example, resists frost and heat because it doesn’t absorb water. Concrete, on the other hand, expands and contracts with temperature changes, which can lead to cracks over time.
Natural stone varies. Granite is tough in all weather, but sandstone and limestone absorb water, making them more likely to crack in freezing temperatures. Brick gets extremely hot in direct sun, making it less ideal for uncovered patios in warm climates. For cold regions, choosing a material with low water absorption and proper sealing helps prevent damage.
Are large-format pavers better than traditional sizes?
Large-format pavers (24 inches or more) create a sleek, modern look, but they aren’t always the best choice for every patio. Their size makes installation trickier, since any imperfections in the base can lead to wobbling.
Weight is another factor—some large pavers require mechanical lifting, increasing labor costs. But they do have advantages. Fewer joints mean less space for weeds to grow, and their surface stays more level over time. Smaller pavers offer more flexibility in design, especially for curved spaces, but require more joint sand and edging to keep them stable.
Can you mix different paver materials in one patio design?
Yes, and it can add visual interest. Mixing materials like concrete and natural stone, or brick with porcelain, creates contrast and defines different areas of a patio. But it’s not just about looks—each material behaves differently.
For example, natural stone absorbs more water than concrete, so combining the two means dealing with uneven weathering. Edging also matters. If one material shifts more than the other, gaps can form. To prevent issues, using a stable base and similar thicknesses helps keep everything level. A well-planned transition (like a border or inlay) keeps mixed materials from looking out of place.
References
- https://www.coldspringusa.com/what-is-the-best-material-to-put-under-pavers/
- https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/patio-cover-ideas